How To Assemble & Install Window Kits on a Shipping Container - DIY Installation
In this video, we are going to show you how to assemble Container Modification World’s Weldless Window Kit and install it on the end wall of a shipping container. In the first part of this video, we will focus on the assembly of the window frame, and the second part will focus on the installation instructions.
What Comes With Container Modification World’s Weldless Window Kit:
- Frames (Header, Footer, and Side Frames)
- Flanges (Top, Bottom, and Side Flanges)
Rivets Tools Required:
- Drill - Rivet Gun
- Silicone - Marker
- Ruler or Level
- Cardboard or Flexible Ruler for Corrugations
- Angle Grinder & 6” Cutting Wheel
Purchase Container Modification World Products Featured in The Video
YouTube Video Transcript
0:00
I'm Channing McCorriston, The Container Guy.
0:02
In this video, we're gonna talk about the Container Modification World's window framing kit.
0:07
We're gonna go into how to assemble the entire kit,
0:10
and then we'll get into actually installing this kit inside of a shipping container.
0:22
Here at The Container Guy, we stock Container Modification World's modular window kits.
0:26
You can go to PlanMyCan.com, check out the different sizes, and even design your own oasis.
0:31
The sidewall windows come in either 36 inch or 48 inch wide, and the end wall windows are either 40
0:37
inch or 60 inches wide. The difference in size is because of the different corrugation pitches,
0:42
and we want our framing kits to land on an exterior corrugation. Now, let's get at it.
0:47
When you unbox the kit, it'll include a header, a footer, two side frames. It'll also have a header
0:54
flange, a footer flange, and two side flanges, and a package of rivets to assemble everything
1:00
together and to install this frame into the sidewall or end wall of a shipping container.
1:05
Let's grab the header.
1:06
This is where the container corrugations will sit when you go to install it on the can.
1:11
And so now, when the water comes down the corrugations,
1:13
it goes and drips away from the window, and this return fold on the inside of
1:18
the can makes sure that no water can get in and return back into your can.
1:22
One thing to note, is that the return flange here tucks
1:26
underneath the flange up on the header so that water, if it comes down the container,
1:31
it'll drain outwards. And so, just make sure you get them in the right order.
1:34
Sometimes you got to give it just a bit of a squeeze to get your holes to line up,
1:39
and then get your rivets in there.
1:48
So here we have our frame. Let's hold it up.
1:53
This is our biggest one. So this is the 60 inch -- 60 inch wide frame, and 30 inch tall, so it's
2:01
actually the biggest window but not the highest window, so it's for a standard height container.
2:06
It'll be going in the end wall of a 20-foot standard. One thing to note
2:09
when you're installing this window, is at the bottom of the window, there are drain
2:14
holes. So if water was to get in anywhere, it drains out the bottom. So make sure you lay
2:17
it into your kit where the top of the window’s against the header portion of the framing kit.
2:23
So now that we know we got the right window, and it fits in the frame -- frames put together
2:28
properly -- we'll grab the clear silicone, lift up the window, silicone all around the perimeter,
2:33
set it back in place, and then sandwich it in with the flanges.
2:38
Now grab your flanges. They're a folded angle iron. Some people will wonder whether this flange
2:44
goes towards the outside of the frame or towards the window, and it goes towards the window.
2:50
So make sure that that's sitting nicely against the window, and then your bottom
2:54
corners -- you can typically see the holes. So if you get those rivets in place and started,
3:00
then where you won't be able to see the holes because the nailing fin’s in the way,
3:04
you'll be able to start drilling through.
3:06
Because these ones are aligned, you'll be able to trust that you're going to go right through
3:10
the vinyl and through the other hole. And then same goes with the bottom flange and top flange.
3:16
And what the flanges do is they sandwich the one-inch nailing fin of a vinyl window
3:21
between the flange itself and the framing kit, and that locks that window in place
3:27
but still allows some flexibility. So when you install this in a container and you're moving
3:31
the container around, that container twists. That movement will happen within the vinyl
3:37
nailing flange and the vinyl frame and not crack your glass window.
3:41
The window's installed in the framing kit and ready to be installed in the container,
3:46
so we'll jump outside -- that's where the can is -- and start marking out the container and
3:51
show you how that process goes, and then get into cutting it out and installing this thing.
3:57
So we got the window outside here now. This is installing on the end wall of a container.
4:02
Doesn't matter, end wall or sidewall, you want to make sure that the outside
4:05
flange of the window frame is securing to the outside corrugation of the container.
4:10
So this is the large 60 inch window. It'll be grabbing the outermost corrugations.
4:16
We also have a 40 inch end wall window, which would grab
4:19
two corrugations in on either side. And so here now, let's just get to marking it out,
4:24
show you how that's done, and selecting the height at which you want the window installed.
4:28
We suggest 900 millimeters, which is, I guess, just under three feet.
4:32
As your uh -- the bottom of your RO to install this door, we are measuring from
4:38
the top of the channel, which is basically the top of the wood floor from the inside.
4:42
And so, once that's all said and done, your windows up, you know, closer to
4:46
40 inches where the glass starts and seems to be a nice height,
4:50
and leaves you enough room up above to still clear vents and other things.
4:55
We also here have this uh fancy marking tool. So this allows us to -- once we make the line uh
5:03
go across the top and bottom, you can only really mark the outside corrugation so. If you use this,
5:08
this allows you to continue the edge through the inner corrugation, so.
5:11
This is something you can build yourself just with a scrap piece corrugation if you've ever
5:15
modified a can before. Otherwise, if you're doing a bunch of windows in a container,
5:19
once you do one you can grab some corrugation and build yourself --
5:23
yeah it's a line marking tool out of it. Other things like cardboard,
5:26
or there's even flexible rulers that people use to get that inside corrugation marked out.
5:30
Once you've got your height marked out in a few different places,
5:33
just grab a straight edge and hold her up.
5:37
Magnetic levels actually work well for this too; it's not what I'm using right now, but uh...
5:43
And it sticks to the can you don't have to actually plant it.
5:49
And then once you have that marked out, then you can actually transfer the mark. I'll do one here.
5:57
So just...
6:01
...through the inside corrugations. This one's a little funky so the center corrugation's got
6:08
the weld in the middle. It's a bit wider of an inside corrugation than the rest.
6:14
And so we just cut right along the fold here.
6:21
You make sure you cut the bottom first -- we do that so that with gravity,
6:25
uh if you cut the top first and then you try cutting the bottom,
6:28
the weight of the panel is going to sandwich your discs.
6:31
Another thing to see here is that he has left two areas, one right here and a second one with
6:39
a little bit of corrugation left in there, so once he cuts out the entire panel and it drops,
6:45
it's going to hinge in those two places and not fall inwards or outwards. We can control
6:50
the fall of the panel, make sure that it safely drops away from this container.
6:54
He'll also leave a couple tacks up high along the sides, so that once he's finished cutting
6:59
everything aside from where this panel is tacked in there, then he'll jump from the inside,
7:05
finish those cuts, and be able to push the corrugation and hinge it outwards.
7:13
That's how that works, so. If you see here uh, it's still connected on the two places. It's
7:19
hinged downwards, it's dropped safely, and we can just finish off those cuts.
7:23
So the header here has this, uh this top plant, and that tucks in behind
7:28
the corrugations and that will actually hold the window in place once you get it in place.
7:41
So there it is. Now, basically -- so you got to come up a little bit on this side yet,
7:47
but once you got it uh nice and square in there, then just pre-drill through
7:53
these holes on the side flange, rivet those in.
7:56
You can drill through the inside corrugations into that flange that's holding that there,
8:01
and throw some rivets there. And then from the inside, you can actually
8:05
drill back through -- there's a return fold here -- and you'll be able to even
8:09
secure the outside corrugations to the footer of the window.
8:13
So we're gonna grab some more clear silicone and just finish off
8:17
any of the areas uh that we feel like water could potentially intrude. And then up top here,
8:22
we've got some almond silicone that we're gonna go over that matches the color of the container,
8:27
and that'll just clean that all off and make sure that no water comes through.
8:32
So that right there is how you install a window in the end wall of a shipping
8:36
container using Container Modification World's weldless window framing kit.
8:41
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8:45
subscribe to our channel and ring that notification bell. If you have any comments
8:50
or questions or new product suggestions, please feel free to leave them in the comments below.
8:54
And as always, check us out at tcg.ca.
8:58
Hope you learned something!
How To Assemble & Install Window Kits on a Shipping Container - DIY Installation
